Wednesday, April 4, 2018

History Uncovered

 The ancient city of Jerash has been continuously occupied for more than 6,500 years though for a few of those centuries the remains of the now excavated ruins were hidden under the sand.  Conquered by general Pompey in 63 BC, the town came into its golden age under his rule to become one of the 10 greatest Roman cities.  It is still considered the best-preserved example of a provincial Roman town in the world and even though they have been working for over 70 years there is so much more to be discovered.

The site is large and spread out so the best way to see it is to get a guide at the entrance and let them walk you around for a few hours.  Yep, hours.  But it didn't seem so long while we were doing it - even the girls didn't get bored (though Stinkerbell swore the hot sun was trying to kill her).  We learned about its architecture, the soaring hilltop temples and its spacious public squares and baths.  We walked the remains of the colonnaded streets, listened to some singing in the grand theatres and saw how two hugely powerful cultures - Graeco-Roman and Arab - meshed and coexisted for so many years.

 The South Gate (1st-century a.d.)

Just beyond the South Gate is the Hippodrome where they used to race chariots in front of 15,000 spectators.

 The spectacular forum.  Unusual because of its shape and size (oval, not round, and well over 90 m long and 80 m wide) with 56 Ionic columns surrounding it.  It leads you directly up to the Temple of Zeus.

Built in 162 a.d. this temple was built over another temple and gives the best views of the site below.  It's also a great spot for a photo...


 The South Theatre.  It seats about 5000 and the acoustics are still fantastic.  We could hear the singer below from the very top and he was not singing very loudly.

 You exit the theatre and pass by the cardo maximus, or the colonnaded street which was the main thoroughfare back in the day.  The street stretches 800 meters to the North Gate and is still paved with its original stones.

 The remains of a Christian church (there were 13 in all) and its mosaic floor.

 The Temple of Artemis is the most memorable spot in all of Jerash.  The remains tower over the city and still dominate the landscape.  Named after the patron goddess of the city, Artemis.  Eleven of the twelve original columns are still standing which is a testament to the ancient Romans building prowess.


 The smaller North Theatre.

 The North Tetrapylon.

 Walking down the cardo maximus you come to the Nymphaeum, the main fountain of the city.


Having spent all morning in the hot sun touring we took a small break on our way to our next destination to watch some talented artists at work.  Part of the Queen Noor foundation, these women (mostly unable to work in outside jobs) are taught a trade/skill and are financed by the foundation.  In this instance, the women were making mosaics out of precious stone.  We were particularly entranced by this piece, and though it was out of our budget, we did find a piece that we loved by the same woman that we took home as a souvenir of our time in Jordan.


 This will take Hannah about 3 months to finish (it is not done yet) and will help her pay living expenses.

 Rested and a bit lighter in the wallet, we walked up the hill to our next stop, Mt. Nebo.  Well known to Christians worldwide as the spot where God showed Moses the Holy Land just before his death.  It is rumored that Moses is buried nearby but no grave has been found.

On a clear day, you can see all the way to Jerusalem but we were not so lucky.  It was still overcast from the sandstorm that had kicked up that day but we did get a chance to stand just where Moses stood and survey the valley before us.




 The serpentine cross sculpture just off the viewing stand is symbolic of the bronze serpent Moses created in the wilderness and the cross upon which Jesus was crucified.

 Coming down from the mountain we drove down down down to the lowest point on earth to spend the afternoon floating, swimming and enjoying a bit of downtime!


It's a long and winding way down to the lowest point on earth.







































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