Even though it isn't celebrated here in Germany, my girls still wanted to hand out Valentine's to their classmates and friends. So we decided to take some pictures (Stinkerbell's on a day she was home from school sick and we were out walking the dog; MadHatter's last minute at home with the sun going down on the day before because, MadHatter) and put picked out some backgrounds. We printed them all, signed them, added some chocolates and voila, semi-handmade Valentines for 2017.
After a full day of touring on Saturday, we decided to take Sunday morning a bit slower. We had a bit later of a start, with a leisurely breakfast and then we ambled onto the tram and headed over to the Nazi Rally Grounds and the Documentation Center. It was a short ride but that doesn't mean that my girls didn't get a bunch of silly playtime in. And so did some of the adults...
Once there, we found there was 11 km of ground and a museum to cover. Thankfully it was a gorgeous day so we headed out on foot around the large lake to visit some of the most important buildings in the history of the Nazi regime. We quickly noticed that there were groups of people ice skating on the frozen lake. Not one to let the fact that she didn't have ice skates stop her, Stinkerbell quickly headed down and brought her reluctant sister with her. MadHatter tried once or twice but wasn't really into it since she didn't have her skates (ever the rule follower). Stinkerbell would have skated all day if we had let her...
We finally dragged her off of the ice and kept on our tour. The first spot we hit was the Große Straße (the Great Road). I didn't snap a picture of it because it looks like any other road you have seen before. You see, the great road was intended to be the central axis and parade road but was never used because the war broke out. Once the war ended, the road was used but not in the way Hitler ever intended - it was an airfield for the US Army. Today it is used by a fair and exhibition company as a parking lot. Seriously, it's a parking lot.
We wandered on, soaking up the sunshine that we hadn't seen in months and enjoying each others company on the lakeside footpath.
In the years that have passed since the war ended, the area that hosted the largest rally parties the world had seen to date is now a place that families bring their children to learn to ride their bikes; runners train on the paths that wind around the rally grounds; lovers stroll in the sunshine; little girls skate on the frozen pond. It's a bit surreal. Because not 100 meters from that same footpath is Zeppelinfeld - the grandstands where Hitler stood and whipped women, children, and troops into a frenzy of loyalty to the National Socialist Regime. It is where he spewed his hatred. Where the crowd not only listened and agreed with his horrific point of view but they pledged their full allegiance to the agenda of the Nazi Party. It was the scene of six rallies, each one larger and more grandiose than the last. But now, it is in ruins. Left to decay by a government that didn't want to preserve this part of its history, they are now working tirelessly to make sure no one forgets this part of its history.
A photo of the field from its heyday (a snapshot I took of a snapshot at the museum)
The famous bombing of the swastika off the top of the building...
The building as it looks today.
One of the most surreal feelings of my life - standing on the same spot hitler stood - overlooking the same fields he looked out upon - and wondering how...just how?
It was time to move on as we were all a bit overwhelmed by the moment. We continued on our journey and got a better view of the Kongresshalle (Congress Hall) which marked the entrance to the rally grounds. It was never finished but was to seat about 50,000 and was to hold the Congress (hence its name). Today, it is the home of the Documentation center and also home to the Symphony Orchestra.
It could almost be mistaken for the Colosseum in Rome...and that is what the architects were going for.
As seen from both sides...
About this time we stumbled upon a Biergarten so we decided why not stop for some lunch. And a bier...
And afterward - a skate - of course...
We finally entered the museum. With audio guides in hand, we started the tour expecting it to be just under the 45 minutes stated by the information desk. What they hadn't counted on was that we had MadHatter with us. She was bound and determined to hear every last word of every single piece of audio. We took almost 2 hours to get through the museum - and even then I had to paraphrase a few things for her and skip a movie or two. I love that she loves history so much and I would have loved to have stayed even longer for her but we had a train to catch :)
The money was incredible - millions of Deutschmarks worth nothing - even in their day.
Propaganda.
Listening so carefully.
There were so many different patches that everyone had to wear!
They made and sold busts of Hitler!
Standing atop of the marquee in Zeppelinfeld, after he bombing and with US soldiers celebrating their victory.
A symbolic memorial for all of the victims of the concentration camps. These lighted railroad tracks have millions of cards laid withing their slats containing the names of all who died needlessly during the war while incarcerated.
It was a lot to take in. But it was something that needed to be seen so as it would never be forgotten. MadHatter, having been to Auschwitz and Dachau, now had a million other thoughts and questions for us. Some that we just don't have answers to. But I would rather her question history and the actions of others than keep her ignorant of the facts. Because that is how history repeats itself, through ignorance and denial.
We were so blessed to have B's aunt and uncle come and visit us last week all the way from Venezuela. Well, officially they popped over from Spain while visiting their daughter, but they live in Venezuela so that is where I consider them to have traveled from. Since it is impossible (and dangerous) for us to travel to see them it is always such a treat when we do get to meet up.
After a few days of sightseeing - just B and the visitors because the girls had school - we caught an early Saturday morning train to Nürnberg. It was one of the few locations that none of us had really explored. Sure, the girls and I did a quick weekend in December to see the Christmas Markets but we saw more Glühwein and sausages that day than we did of any of the sights.
It is a short train ride at just over an hour and the girls entertained themselves nicely...
We were staying just a couple hundred meters from the train station so we were checked in and on our way to the city center by mid-morning. First up, the church of St. Lorenz - gorgeous but we have seen our fair share of gorgeous churches while living in Europe.
We had been go, go, go since very early in the morning and at this point, the girls needed a bit of a break. And since it seems that there is a Gelateria every time you turn around, Gelato it was.
Snack time over we headed into the main square. This is where the Christmas markets are stationed and I did get a chance to walk a bit of it in December but it was so overly crowded I didn't get a chance to see much of it. This time it was much less crowded and I was finally able to get a really good look around and we even got to watch the clock chime and dance at the hour.
The Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain) is from 1396.
Once again, we decided to take a break and grab some lunch. We popped into the nearest restaurant and it turns out that we had stumbled into one of the oldest and most traditional places around - it was built in 1313! It is a small place with communal tables and it has a very short menu - you can get sausages (in plates of 6, 8, 10 or 12) with potato salad or red kraut or you can have pork knuckle or pork heart. That's the extent of the food because of course, they had beer and wine. Which we partook of along with our sausages (none of us were up for the other two choices).
We all got one of our favorite things...
Sated and warm again, we were off to the castle grounds. Perched high above the city, the grounds are a complex of buildings set withing the city walls and are noted to be one of the most formidable medieval fortifications. The castle once signaled the power and importance of the Imperial city of Nürnberg. Having been laid to ruins during the war it took about 30 years for the restorations to its present state to be completed.
The Tiefer Brunnen (Deep well with building) on the far left of the picture and the Sinwellturm (Sinwell tower) in the middle. The second picture is the opening in the castle walls.
The Upper Chapel inside the Imperial Chapel.
Reading up on the history.
Goofing around as we wait for the show...that never showed...
I think I found Wall-E
We wandered around a bit more but we were getting cold and the girls were asking for more Gelato...and the grandfatherly figure that was with us readily agreed. First, we made them walk back down the hill and through our final church of the day - St. Sebaldus.
Another Evangelical Lutheran church, this one is just as magnificent as the last architecturally but has the added feature that it contains the actual remains of St. Sebald! The relic shrine, designed in 1391 is the most important work of art in the church.
The details were amazing but it was freezing inside this church (colder than it was outside by far) so we stepped out, ran into the first Gelateria we found to get some ice cream and Glühwein (couldn't come to Nürnberg and not have any) and head home for dinner. With such an early start to our day, we were exhausted by 5:30 as Stinkerbell proved by barely keeping her eyes open through her pasta course. We retired early beause we still had a full day ahead of us on Sunday.
